Prologue

When I travel to a new city, I like to climb up high and overlook the city's panoramic view. Daytime where you can observe the city in detail is good, but I love the scenery of the city at night when the lights are shining after sunset.

Among the places I have experienced so far, the Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles, Twin Peaks in San Francisco, and The Bunkers in Barcelona are particularly memorable. Griffith Observatory is so famous for the background of the movie La La Land, and Twin Peaks is also a popular tourist destination. But The Bunkers is a hidden place that Barcelona citizens, let alone tourists, are not familiar with. The 360-degree view from The Bunkers, and the Sagrada Familia in the distance are still deeply engraved on my retina.

There are several places similar to The Bunkers in Seoul. You can see such a beautiful night view, but not only tourists but even Seoul citizens do not know it well.

I have brought my friends and colleagues to these places many times, and on each occasion, they were thoroughly impressed and grateful to me. I had planned to write a guidebook solely for my acquaintances at the beginning, but later, I realized that the experiences I've had were too remarkable to be kept within a limited circle. Hence, I decided to publish an interactive e-book to share these wonderful moments with a broader audience.

In this book, I select and introduce 10 unknown night view attractions according to the following three criteria.

First, I chose places where everyone could easily go within 1 hours by public transportation.

Second, it should not cost much. The sky lounge of the skyscraper was excluded.

Thirdly, I tried to select relatively less well-known places. Famous tourist attractions were excluded because information could be easily obtained.

I took all the pictures in this guidebook by myself using Galaxy S23 Ultra powered by Qualcomm Snapdragon not DSLR camera, even without tripod. All photos were not edited as I’m not good at Photoshop. So, I'm concerned that my limited photography skills may not adequately capture the emotions I experienced.

Seoul is renowned for its safety, making it one of the most secure cities in the world. Women can confidently wander around late at night without any concern, and if you're skeptical, you can find numerous stories of foreigners' experiences on Reddit. Additionally, public transportation in Seoul is top-notch and affordable. You can easily access route and timetable information on your smartphone via various applications. Not only that, Seoul boasts a rich history where old customs coexist with modernity, making it an alluring travel destination for all. Even if you're not a fan of K-POP, there's something for everyone in Seoul. I hope that the destinations featured in this guidebook will enrich your journey and leave you with unforgettable memories.

Prerequisite

Naver Map

Two map applications, Naver Map and Kakao Map, are dominating the Korean map service market.

These two maps provide not only point of interest information, but also navigation and public transportation information. In particular, if you select public transportation in the route search function, it provides accurate information on how to use public

transportation to reach your destination, along with subway and bus timetables. Google Map provides very poor map quality in Korea due to legal issues, and also does not provide public transportation information.

Both Naver Map and Kakao Map allow you to select English in the language settings and have similar functions and performance, but purely based on my personal preference, I recommend installing Naver Map on your smartphone.

Search for “Naver Map” in the Google Play Store or Apple Appstore and install it.

Each map picture in the e-book has a hyperlink, so you will be connected to Naver Map if you click the map. QR code for the map is provided as well.

If you select Naver Map's “Directions” function and select the public transportation option with bus icon, Naver Map will tell you how to get to your destination by public transportation from your current location, along with the cost and the time required.

To activate the compass mode, which is particularly useful for walking, press the circle twice that is located at the bottom left.

Compass Mode

"1.0km" under the name “Mumudae” in above map shows the distance from my home. The distance from your current location to destination will be shown here.

Transportation Card

A transportation card is required to use public transportation throughout Korea. Credit cards issued in Korea embed transportation card functions, but foreigners should purchase a dedicated transportation card.

Transportation cards can be purchased at most convenience stores for KRW 3,000, and you can add as much money as you’d like during your stay. If the transfer time is less than 30 minutes, the fare is proportional to the total travel distance regardless of the number of transfers and the type of transportation.

The refund process for the remaining amount is very complicated, so charge as much as you need for your stay in Korea, and keep the transportation card as a souvenir when you return to your country and use it the next time you visit Korea.

Now that you've finished all the preparations, let's go to the hidden wonders of Seoul together.

Seoul’s Hidden Nighttime Gems

홍지동

섭목동

1. Mumudae & The Forest Chosochaekbang

Mumudae is a real hidden gem. It wouldn’t be an overstatement to say it’s quite possibly my favorite spot in the whole of this incredible city.

It was literally a hidden place that did not appear on any map in the world until 2021. When I moved to the neighborhood where I currently reside, I came across this place by chance while taking a walk in the mountain behind the neighborhood. The view was absolutely breathtaking. I tried to find more information on this place by Googling, but I couldn't find anything. I felt like a farmer who found a jewel while plowing the field.

Now this place can be found in the map application, but no-one in Seoul I met knew this place.

Pine trees are growing around, and many magpies live there.

Mumudae is a very small observatory. It is still a place that is not well known, so there are usually about 10 people at most, and if you are lucky in the evening, there are no people in many cases.

During the day, you can see Blue House, the office of the president of the Republic of Korea, Gyeongbokgung Palace, and Lotte Tower, the tallest building in Korea. At night, Blue House and Gyeongbokgung Palace are in the dark, and you can only see the colorful lights of Lotte World Tower.

Now, let's move to The Forest Chosochaekbang. It’s a two minute walk away.

The Forest Chosochaekbang has been used as a police's guard post to protect the Inwangsan Mountain area and the Blue House for the past 50 years, but the building was remodeled and opened as a book cafe and complex cultural space in the fall of 2020. The structure of the parts of guard post are left around the building.

Let's look around the first floor and then go up to the second floor. You will find out why it is called the best view cafe in Seoul.

Getting There & Away

It takes 35 minutes on foot from Gyeongbokgung Station on Subway Line

3. If you want to reduce the walking distance even a little, get out of Exit 3 of Gyeongbokgung Station, take the Jongno 09 village bus, and get off at the end point. Turn on Naver Map and activate compass mode. From the entrance of Suseongdong Valley, you can hike for about 15 minutes on foot.

2.  Yongyangbongjeojeong Park

The name Yongyangbongjeojeong is very unfamiliar to me as a Korean. It refers to a pavilion that King Jeongjo, the 22nd king of Joseon Dynasty, would take a rest during his visits to Hyeonneungwon in Suwon, where his father Crown Prince Sado was buried. Known for his filial piety, King Jeongjo would often visit Hyeonneungwon, and to do so, temporary bridge would be constructed by connecting boats to the Han River. When he is waiting for the construction of the temporary bridge, a pavilion provided a resting place for the king.

Originally, there were two to three buildings, but now only this building remains.

Pavilion's signboard and beautiful traditional painting.

Inside the pavilion, a painting depicting King Jeongjo and the procession moving to Hyeonneungwon is printed. If you want to see the original painting, please visit National Palace Museum of Korea in Gyeongbokgung Palace.

You will find Yongyangbong Park if you go up the hill about 200 meters from the Pavilion. The park opened in April 2021. Inside the park, there are two observatories, the Summit Observatory and the Sky Observatory.

Han River from the Summit Observatory

There is a photo spot in the Sky Observatory.

You can also sit on a swing chair and enjoy the view.

There is also a cafe “The Hangang” so you can enjoy coffee and slice cake.

It would be an unforgettable experience to see the sun set and the lights on the bridge of the Han River.

By chance, I was able to take the best picture of my life.

The night view across the river is so beautiful.

Street lights make footprints on the road.

Cute bunnies shined with LED lights.

Getting There & Away

Arrive at Nodeul Station on Subway Line 9. Get out of Exit 3, and then turn on the compass mode of Naver Map. It takes about 14 minutes on foot from there to Yongyangbongjeojeong Park.

3.  Seokchon Lake

During the cherry blossom festival in springtime, many Seoul citizens flock to the streets to admire the blossoming cherry trees. I'm not particularly fond of crowded places, however, Seokchon Lake is featured in this book for its easy accessibility and stunning night view.

Originally, Seokchon Lake served as the main stream of the old Han River. However, when the Han River was being maintained, the stream of water was altered, and the area was transformed into an artificial lake. The lake is divided into East Lake and West Lake by the Jamsil Lake Bridge, and Lotte World Magic Island is situated in the West Lake area.

Additionally, Seokchon Lake is the perfect location for viewing the Lotte World Tower, the tallest building in Korea.

Gate for cherry blossom festival.

Citizens enjoying the cherry blossoms.

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East and West lakes are connected by a small channel under the Jamsil Lake Bridge.

A couple enjoying cherry blossoms and the night view.

Crowded with many people during the cherry blossom season.

The lights reflected on the surface of the water are beautiful.

Getting There & Away

Arrive at Jamsil Station on Subway Line 2 or Line 8. Get out of Exit 1 , 2, 10, or 11, and then turn on the compass mode of Naver Map. It takes about 5 minutes on foot from there to Seokchon Lake.

4.  Eungbongsan Mountain

Don't let the term "mountain" in the name intimidate you, as most of the mountains featured in this book are actually hills that are easily climbable. Eungbongsan is a prime example, with a height of only 81 meters above sea level.

Eungbongsan means "hawk mountain," and it's said to be where kings in Joseon Dynasty enjoyed hunting utilizing trained hawks. In the spring, visitors flock to the mountain to witness the vibrant forsythia colony that covers its terrain. Eungbongsan is also famous for its stunning night view, as it sits at the meeting point of the Jungrangchun stream and the mainstream of the Han River.

Forsythia flowers painting the mountains yellow.

View of the Han River from the mountainside.

Pavilion at the top of Eungbongsan Mountain.

The Han River from the top of the mountain.

The harmony of forsythia flowers and the Han River.

Namsan Tower in the far distance.

The way down to the direction of Dalmaji bong.

A beautiful ensemble of forsythia flowers and cherry blossoms

The last week of March is the best time to visit Eungbongsan Mountain.

Night view of Han River from Eungbongsan Mountain.

There was a drama shooting at the top of Eungbongsan Mountain. The staffs are hustling and bustling.

Getting There & Away

Arrive at Kumho Station on Subway Line 3. Get out of Exit 1, transfer to Seongdong 09 Village Bus, and get off at Eungbongdong Hyundai Apartment. It takes about 10 minutes on foot from there to the top of Eungbongsan Mountain.

5.  Dalmaji Bong Park

The name Dalmaji bong was derived from the fact that local residents gathered here on the fifteenth of lunar January to see the full moon.

This picturesque spot boasts one of the finest views of Dongho Bridge. The gold and blue harmonize exquisitely to create a fantastic night view.

Despite being lesser-known than Eungbongsan Mountain, Dalmaji bong offers an even more breathtaking vista of the Han River. Visitors can't help but be captivated by the sheer beauty of the surroundings.

To the left, you can see Seongsu Bridge and Lotte World Tower in the distance.

The observatory is a place with few people, so you can always enjoy the secluded view.

It may be the badminton court with the best view in the world. The wind shouldn't be blowing too hard...

In the distance, you can see Maebongsan Pavilion and Namsan Tower.

Day and night view of Dongho Bridge from the photo zone.

Seongsu Bridge, Lotte World Tower, and the Full Moon.

The light color of Namsan Tower represents the concentration of the fine dust particles in the air. Blue means clear air, and red means bad air.

Getting There & Away

Arrive at Oksu Station on Subway Line 3. Get out of Exit 4, and then turn on the compass mode of Naver Map. It takes about 5 minutes on foot from there to Dalmaji Bong Park.

6.  Maebongsan Mountain Park

Maebongsan means "hawk mountain," which is exactly the same as Eungbongsan. Like Eungbongsan, it is a place where the kings of the Joseon Dynasty enjoyed hunting utilizing trained hawks. Maebongsan is 174 meters above sea level, and you can climb to the pavilion at the top in 10 to 15 minutes.

While Eungbongsan and Dalmaji bong have a wide viewing angle of the Han River, giving you a sense of openness, Maebongsan has a very narrow view of the Han River, so all photos taken here have similar compositions.

Nevertheless, Maebongsan is higher than Eungbongsan and Dalmaji Bong, making it the ideal spot for the best views of the Han River and Lotte World Tower.

The concentration of fine dust in the atmosphere in Seoul was very high when I visited there. Lotte World Tower was blurred in the distance.

The last week of March to the first week of April is the best time to enjoy the colorful spring in Seoul. However, this is also the time of year when the concentration of fine dust in the atmosphere is the highest.

Day and night of the octagonal pavilion of Maebongsan Mountain. The night in Seoul is more colorful than the day.

Walking along the trail from Maebongsan Mountain to Namsan Mountain, you can see pagodas made of stones. Each stone was piled up with someone's prayers and wishes.

Getting There & Away

Arrive at Beotigogae Station on Subway Line 6. Get out of Exit 3, and then turn on the compass mode of Naver Map. It takes about 15 minutes on foot from there to Maebongsan Mountain Park.

7.  Namsan

Namsan Mountain, the heart of Seoul, has an interesting history. During the Joseon Dynasty, it marked the southern border of Seoul. However, as the city gradually expanded, it now sits in the middle of Seoul.

There are several ways to climb Namsan Mountain: walking up, taking a cable car, catching a bus, or driving. Despite being born and raised in Seoul, I've never ridden the cable car or paid for the elevator to Namsan Tower. To me, the satisfaction of hiking to the top of Namsan Mountain and admiring the view from the summit is more than enough.

Depending on the route, it can take between 30 minutes to an hour to reach the peak of Namsan Mountain. But, regardless of how you get up, make sure to walk down.

Namsan Mountain is particularly stunning when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom, but it's worth noting that the mountain is a fantastic destination all year round.

From the summit of Namsan Mountain, you can get a magnificent view of downtown Seoul.

The street painters at the peak of Namsan Mountain bring to mind the Montmartre hill in Paris.

Octagonal Pavilion at the Top of Namsan Mountain.

Countless locks. Lovers who visit this place write their names on locks and hang them everywhere.

The view of the Han River from the summit is not very good. I suddenly wonder what kind of scenery I can see when I go up the tower by elevator.

A girl who takes a picture in front of a heart-shaped statue.

A sign indicating the direction and distance of various cities around the world.

Namsan Mountain was a mountain located on the southern border of Seoul during the Joseon Dynasty. There is a beacon station at the top of Namsan Mountain. During the Joseon Dynasty, when foreigners invaded or important affairs of the kingdom occurred, signals were transmitted here by smoke during the day and torches at night. The beacon station in Namsan Mountain was the final gathering place for beacon fires delivered from all over the country. It is said that it took about 6 to 12 hours for the beacon, which began on the southern coast of Busan, Mokpo, and other beaches, to be delivered to Namsan Mountain.

Regardless of how you climbed Namsan Mountain, make sure to start from Beacon Station and walk down toward Hoehyeon Station or Seoul Station.

The reason is to go to Jamdubong Photo Island, which is my favorite place in Namsan.

Located in the mountainside, Jamdubong Photo Island is a small terrace, but its stunning view of North Seoul is unparalleled, especially when the sun goes down. In fact, the night view is ten times more breathtaking than its daytime counterpart.

To fully enjoy this mesmerizing scene, consider preparing a sandwich or having an early dinner before arriving at the island at sunset.

Trust me, watching the sun slowly disappear into the horizon while the city lights gradually illuminate the buildings is an experience that will leave you absolutely ecstatic.

Seoul city at sunset from Jamdubong Photo Island.

Seoul city, where the sun is setting and colorful lights are shining.

Seoul City Wall and Namsan Tower. The story of the Seoul City Wall will be detailed in Naksan chapter.

Seoul City Wall and Namsan Tower.

The lighting color of Namsan Tower represents the concentration of the fine dust particles in the atmosphere. Blue means clear air, and red means bad air.

Streetlamp patterned with Namsan Tower and Hunminjeongeum (Korean script).

I especially enjoy lights on stairs at night.

Getting There & Away

Arrive at Chungmuro Station on Subway Line 3 or 4. Get out of Exit 2, and take the Bus No. 01 and move to the last stop. After enjoying the peak area of Namsan, walk down in the direction of Hoehyeon station to visit Jamdubong Photo Island.

8.  Seoullo 7017

Construction of the Seoul Station Overpass began in 1969 and opened on August 15, 1970.

In 2012, the Seoul Metropolitan Government's precision safety diagnosis found safety problems due to aging, and a plan was established to remove the overpass.

However, in 2014, the Seoul Metropolitan Government decided to replace the Seoul Station overpass with a park like the New York High Line. The park opened on May 20, 2017.

"70" of 7017 means the year 1970 when the Seoul Station Overpass was built, and "17" has a combined meaning of 17 branches, 17 meters of the height, and the year 2017 when the park project was completed.

Escalator from Seoul Station to the Overpass.

Seoullo 7017 at sunset.

Dad and daughter check out the view inside a “Curiosity Pot”, that was translated to “Peeping Pot” in English.

Various trees are planted.

Seoul Station rooftop garden is connected to the Seoullo 7017.

The main street in front of Seoul Station.

Seoullo 7017 from the bridge connected to Seoul Station rooftop garden.

Day and night of Sungnyemun Gate, Korea's No. 1 national treasure.

Former Seoul Station building. It was modeled after Lucerne Station in Switzerland during the Japanese colonial period in 1925.

The bridge connecting Seoullo 7017 and Seoul Station rooftop garden.

Beautiful lighting of Seoullo 7017.

Seoul Square Building and Seoul Station.

Getting There & Away

Arrive at Seoul Station on Subway Line 1, 4. Get out of Exit 2, and then turn on the compass mode of Naver Map. It takes about 5 minutes on foot from there to Seoullo 7017.

9.  Naksan Park

Naksan Park is a place located between Daehakro and Heunginjimun (Dongdaemun) Gate, where you can find stories about the country’s past. In Naksan Park located above Daehakro, you can enjoy a panoramic view of downtown Seoul.

Hanyangdoseong, the Seoul City Wall was initially constructed more than six centuries ago and has managed to withstand the test of time. Much of the wall was built along mountain ridges, protecting it invasion and saving it from the destructive forces of modernization. Today, this well-preserved cultural heritage is an inseparable landmark of the Korean capital.

This 18.2km-long castle wall was built by linking the four inner mountains (i.e., Bugaksan, Inwangsan, Namsan, and Naksan) surrounding Hanyang (present-day Seoul) to protect the capital from the attack of enemies. The Hyehwamun Gate – Naksan Mountain – Heunginjimun Gate section of the wall is 2.1km long.

A promenade near the Seoul City Wall.

The most beautiful season is spring, when the cherry blossoms and forsythia bloom.

Signboard of Naksan Park.

Bukhansan Mountain over the forsythia colony.

Namsan Tower from Naksan.

Cherry blossoms and forsythia are messengers that signal the arrival of spring.

At the entrance of the mural village in Ihwa-dong lies Gaebbul, a charming little art gallery and cafe that offers visitors more than just a typical art- viewing experience. Not only does the admission fee cover entry to the gallery, but it also includes a refreshing drink or even a glass of beer.

Imagine yourself sitting on the rooftop with a cold glass of beer in hand on a sultry summer night, gazing out at the breathtaking night view of Seoul. It's the perfect setting to unwind and forget about all your worries and stresses.

Located beside Naksan Park, the village in Ihwa-dong came to be called Mural Paintings Village after 70-plus painters and locals made paintings on the walls of houses in 2006 through a public project to make the place a happier, more pleasant place to live in. It has become a well-known visitor destination.

Heunginjimun Gate is located at the end of Naksan Mountain.

Seoul City Wall from Heunginjimun Gate.

Night view of Seoul City Wall at Naksan.

The red moon is rising…

Getting There & Away

Arrive at Hyehwa Station on Subway Line 4. Get out of Exit 2, and then turn on the compass mode of Naver Map. It takes about 12 minutes on foot from there to Naksan Park. After that, move along the Seoul City Wall toward Heunginjimun Gate.

10.        Waryong Park

Waryong Park was established in 1984 along the northern part of Seoul City Wall. The Seoul City Wall in Waryong Park is connected to Naksan Mountain with Hyehwamun Gate as the border.

Interestingly, the park's name is derived from the resemblance of its road to a lying dragon.

On a clear day, the view of Seoul from inside or outside the Wall is truly spectacular. From within the Wall, visitors can catch a glimpse of Changgyeonggung Palace, DDP, Namsan, and even the distant Lotte World Tower in Jamsil. On the other hand, from outside the Wall, the highlands of Seongbuk-dong and Donam-dong, along with the Bukak Octagonal Pavilion hanging at the end of the Bukak Skyway, can be observed.

To get to Waryong Park, there are a few different routes you can take, but it's highly recommended to start from Samcheong-dong and make your way past the Board of Audit and Inspection in Korea.

Walking along the mountain path, especially at night when there are fewer people around, provides a serene and peaceful atmosphere to enjoy the stunning night view of Seoul.

If you plan your visit during the spring when cherry blossoms are in full bloom or during the autumn when the leaves transform into a kaleidoscope of colors, you'll be in for an unforgettable experience.

Although the trail is well-maintained, it's not a popular spot due to the lack of residential areas nearby and the fact that it's not well-known.

Signboard of Waryong Park.

In the mountains of Korea, there is a pavilion at the most scenic spot.

Night view from Waryong Park

When you're ready to go down, you have a couple of options to consider. You can choose to follow Seoul City Wall in the direction of Hyehwamun, or alternatively, cross the campus and head towards Daehakro by entering the back gate of Sungkyunkwan University.

Getting There & Away

Arrive at Anguk Station on Subway Line 3. Get out of Exit 2, and take the Jongno 02 village bus, and get off at Sungkyunkwan University back gate & Waryong Park. Then turn on the compass mode of Naver Map. It takes about 5 minutes on foot from there to Waryong Park.

Epilogue

There are additional places I would like to recommend, but unfortunately, I couldn’t cover them in this book. If you can get a ride, I suggest visiting Bukak Octagonal Pavilion. If you have six to eight hours, enough stamina, and enjoy hiking, I highly recommend Bukhansan Mountain or Gwanaksan Mountain. You can also take a cruise on the Han River and see the National Assembly or the Rainbow Fountain on Banpo Bridge. If I am able to publish a revision, I hope to add more places.

For those readers who plan to visit Seoul and explore the places I've suggested, please contact me at Instagram @twilight.in.seoul. Although I can't guarantee it, if we can arrange a schedule, I hope we can choose one of the destinations in this book and take a stroll together while chatting. If you find this e-book helpful and would like to support this project, I would appreciate it if you could buy me a coffee by clicking the figure below.

I wish everyone who visits Seoul an abundance of splendid and memorable experiences.